Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
