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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.